Day one: Fontainebleau to a field in the middle of nowhere (approx 50km)
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8& ... eb87a&z=10Alex kindly offered to accompany me for the first few km so we left his car at around 4pm. We skated together down some pretty steep sections and I could feel how much my bag was slowing me down. After around 30mins Alex said goodbye and I was on my own. Things didn’t get off to a good start as I immediately fell over stupidly whilst looking at my map. Both knees were grazed but nothing serious – still it made me realise that I should be careful.
I was determined not to get behind schedule, even with the fairly late start. The problem was that the roads got steadily worse. In the small villages they were ok, but skateable, outside they became rough as you like and made progress painfully slow. Any hills felt very sketchy as the bumpiness of the roads meant that I had very little traction when turning so there wasn’t much choice but to bomb them, foot braking when my teeth started chattering.

Right after one of the really bad sections, I came to the village of Bazzoches and came across a really smooth section. I took some photos half way down an amazing hill whilst the sun was about to set. Got some dinner in a tiny restaurant – the owner even gave me some plasters for my knees too! Afterward I then set off to find a place to set up camp – easier said than done.
I didn’t want to camp too much out in the open as I knew that essentially I would be trespassing. Also, due to the high chance of being caught I didn’t want to trample any crops so finally found a secluded area in the corner of a field next to a small wood.
Day 2: Field in the middle of nowhere to Perrigny (approx 74km)
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8& ... 83026&z=10Needless to say that I slept badly. At around 8am I was woken by some barking right next to my tent. For a second I wondered what to do as images so trying to fend off dogs and pack up my gear filled my head. I then thought that the dog’s owner might be around. Things went a little like this:
Me: Bonjour Monsieur (tentatively, pulse-rate doing about 1000bpm)
=> Laura – I forgot to woof back!
Dog: Woof, woof
- Silence –
Dog: Woof, woof, woof
Me: Bonjour Monsieur
Person: I’m not a Monsieur!
Me: Bonjour Madame (Unzipping tent franticly and poking head outside). I’m really sorry for being in your field!
Person (turns out to be a sweet old woman): Don’t worry, I don’t mind, it’s not my field it’s my neighbour’s…did you sleep well?

After that I explained my rather novel form of transport and what I was doing which she found very amusing. I was a lot more relaxed afterwards and packed up my kit and left around 9.30.
The roads during the morning were pretty good (or I was getting used to them) and I made good progress through some really very scenic countryside. The villages were tiny but still I managed to find a nice shop that made me the biggest sandwich ever. I decided to push on before lunch and finally stopped in a valley around Les Blins for a long rest. It was ever so calm and peaceful.
After lunch was more difficult, the rough surfaces were starting to take their toll on my front bearings as well as my knees. I’m really glad that my board’s got a little give in it as I’m sure it helped ease the pain. As I was going through a small village after a particularly long stretch of exposed road with the sun beating down a man walked out pushing a lawn mower. I stopped and asked the way and he offered me a drink and to fill up my water bottles. He was wearing the best footwear I’ve seen in a while – cowskin covered clogs!
Just outside Senan there was the biggest uphill section that I’ve come across on my longboard. It just seemed to go on for ever, the downhill section was good but by then the roads where getting busier as I was nearing Auxerre with around 20km to go. The roads were still as bumpy but the downhill sections were getting ever-steeper. With the added traffic not only was I getting nervous but I could see that the drivers were too of me being on their roads. I found that heavy traffic plus bad road conditions very nerve-wracking, especially at the end of a long day.
My trainers weren’t coping too well with the footbraking. The good (?) news was that the smoother parts of the road were melting in the heat of the sun and actually helped to slow me down during the steeper sections.
Finally got to the town of Perigny, about 3km from Auxerre and decided to not try to go any further by board. The downhill sections were still steep and traffic was ridiculously busy and I was knackered. I waited for about 30mins for a bus that never came before getting a lift from a friendly couple. They quickly drove me around the centre of the town before dropping me off at the campsite at 8.00 near to the road I start from on my final day.
Finally getting a shower was amazing and after some food I slept like a baby!
Day 3: Auxerre to Cravant (approx 20km)
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8& ... d98f5&z=12Decided to swap around my wheels in order to try and get some more rolling speed out of my bearings. It seemed to work – but as I left the campsite along yet more rough roads my whole body was aching. The scenery was really picturesque and I passed many people on cycling holidays which made a nice change from seeing just cars.
A really nice cycle path started after about 2km at the village of Vaux – it made such a difference to both the speeds I was able to achieve and to my morale. The cycle path followed a river all the way to the tiny village of Cravant and it was fun to be in such a relaxing setting. I got stopped by a Kiwi guy who was on a canal boat trip and we exchanged stories of our journeys.

My Grandmother spent many childhood years in Cravant as her family rented a house in the village. After a brief phone call I found it and took some pictures. The road I needed to take went right through centre of the village and I set out along it. Although on my map this road was marked as one of the smallest (so in theory one of the least busy roads), I was passed by a good few HGV’s going at quite high speeds.
With 30km to go until Avallon I decided to cut my trip short. I was feeling pretty tired and the thought of spending a few extra hours on rough roads with heavy traffic wizzing by me was not appealing. I wanted to remember the trip for the right reasons and decided to head back to Cravant to rest a little before catching the train back to Paris. I paddled a bit in a stream to cool off my feet (lovely!) and grabbed a souvenir bottle of wine and a sandwich from a restaurant opposite the station.
On the train journey back I was a little bit disappointed with my decision to cut my journey short but at the same time I felt good about what I’d achieved.
Thoughts/feelings post trip
My legs are still aching from the trip and it’s a mixed bag of feelings. I’m really happy to have done this journey because I’ve wanted to try the solo, unsupported thing for a while now. I’m pretty happy with my performance even though I was unable to reach my planned destination.
The trip was a steep learning curve as I there were many ‘firsts’ for me:
- 1st time free camping
- 1st time longboarding with a heavy bag
- 1st time longboarding on such rubbish roads, not unlike skating on the surface of a cheese-grater
- 1st time skating more than 4 hours in a day
- 1st time relying on meeting people to fill up water bottles
What I missed the most about the trip was not being able to share it properly with any friends. I believe that in coming back from his trip Rob Thompson also felt similarly. It’s true that I really missed being around people. For me this was a useful thing to find out as I’ve sometimes wanted to travel on my own more extensively but now know that I’d enjoy it more if I were able to share it with someone else.
I’m not comparing my short trip to Rob’s epic, life-changing journey but I found it interesting that afterwards I was able to relate to some of the things I’ve read on a more practical level. I found that solo skating was harder on morale and having someone else along would mean sharing the weight of equipment whilst also sharing the highs and the lows.
I also underestimated the impact on both equipment and body rough roads could have. This trip has really brought newfound respect for all the distance trips that have been done recently and over the last few years. This also brought new questions to mind:
- How did Keith manage a 100km a day for many consecutive days?
- How did Laura and Ben cope with the respective challenges they faced on their trips and how would I cope in similar situations?
- How different would the trip have been had I been supported?
I’m looking forward to the next trip although at present I’m not sure when it’ll be. Hopefully get some people over to France? I’d really love to do a similar sort of trip again on one of the longer greenways in the south of France with some friends. The greenway around Bordeaux looks ace…
The rest of the pictures from the trip are here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1 ... 5a38567355